I always torque mine , it's the best way to be sure the nuts are tight enough .

http://www.focusrsoc.com/forums/topic/275962-wheel-bolt-torque-setting/

 

only time i wouldnt torque my wheel nuts correctly is if changing a spare on the side of the road, and id do it when i got home.

 

According to the workshop manual posted previously, the standard wheel nut torque for the Mk3 is 135Nm.

View attachment RS Mk3 wheel nut torque.pdf

The locker isn't mentioned but it would make sense if it were similar to the Mk2 at 110Nm.

 

According to the workshop manual posted previously, the standard wheel nut torque for the Mk3 is 135Nm.

RS Mk3 wheel nut torque.pdf

The locker isn't mentioned but it would make sense if it were similar to the Mk2 at 110Nm.

Interesting. Does the mk2 wsm call out a different torque for the standard and locking wheel nuts then? I would expect all five to be torqued to a similar level.

 

Interesting. Does the mk2 wsm call out a different torque for the standard and locking wheel nuts then? I would expect all five to be torqued to a similar level.

The MK2 is 110nm for the lock nuts and 130nm for the rest .

 

i dont.....except the inbuilt torque wrench in my elbow!

 

I would suggest that the Torque is so you know you've reached the appropriate "level" and that its at the relevant "tightness" the lockers don't need to be at the same level if the other ordinary bolts / nuts are at the correct level.

The locknuts would be difficult to "undo" at the same torque at the roadside mending a puncture plus the "Lock nut" is not designed in the same way to apply max torque it's there to prevent theft !

FF