Hi Simon, I recall some similar threads to this, and found this one: Immobiliser CAN faults after flat battery
Could it be just a simple fuse that's blown?

 

Hi Simon, I recall some similar threads to this, and found this one: Immobiliser CAN faults after flat battery
Could it be just a simple fuse that's blown?

Hi Pete,

That's actually a very good point as I haven't checked any of the fuses - will take a look and check these to see if any are blown - thanks!

Simon

 

I was told a couple of weeks ago from someone I know with a MK2 and his did the same
It was the cluster
Had it repaired and it’s all good now

 

Just thought I would post an update here, I removed my instrument cluster and sent it off to this service for repair: FORD FOCUS,RS 2007-2011 INSTRUMENT CLUSTER REPAIR SERVICE | eBay

I have refitted the cluster and the issue has not resolved, it is throwing up the same fault code as well as a few extra ones now.
I will be calling the repair company on Monday to ask what repairs they carried out and what testing they carried out to verify the work.

I'm now running out of ideas, I was thinking of buying a replacement cluster and having it programmed to the car and keys.

I think this can be done with an ELMConfig - can anyone confirm if this is correct?

Simon

 

It's a shame you've not got a lux 2 car, I have a spare cluster that you could have tried & if sorted then purchased off me.

 

Although not the same situation, when Mountune stuck a new ECU in mine they couldn’t get the keys to work, took them weeks to fix. Maybe Fred/Johnny might be able to provide some advice?

 

A couple of things to check before replacing anything:

Battery health - although you suggest the battery was changed 3 months ago you haven't said if it was kept on a battery conditioner whilst you were away for 10 weeks.

All the connections in the passenger footwell connection box.

 

Mine had new ecu, fitted to it

 

Hi all,

Thanks for the replies and for the pointers.

Unfortunately my car is still suffering the symptoms outlined in the original post - I can't find any loose connections and the battery is reading fine on the volt meter.

I have the car booked in to an AutoElectrician next week who has seen similar issues on other Fords with keyless start - so hopefully he will be able to diagnose and rectify the issue. I'll post an update here when I get the car off to him.

Simon

 

Folks just a quick update on this - the AutoElectrician received the car at the start of this week, he recoded the keys to the car and everything seemed to be working fine, however when he came out to the car the next morning to check the issue had reappeared.

He has done some more diagnostics and has determined that a sensor in the boot is at fault, so has ordered a replacement one from Ford and is awaiting arrival of the part - I'm communicating with him through my local trusted mechanic as I am away from home again and my mechanic has a good working relationship with the AutoElectrician - hopefully the arrival of the part will see the end to this issue.

I have a quick question for anyone on here who may be able to answer - does anyone know what the sensor in question may be? I think I remember a while ago when looking into this that I found some info on there being a number of sensors in the MK2 Focus for receiving radio signal from keys and that one may be in the boot, is this correct? I can't find or remember where I originally found this info so any direction or info here greatly appreciated

I will keep this thread updated with progress.

Simon

 

Iirc the module in the boot detects if a key is in the car so you can't lock them inside.

 

if i remember right on the mk2 the boot one detects if a key is left in the boot,theres another sensor under the console to detect when the keys inside the car so you can start it

Thanks guys - much appreciated. Is it reasonable to assume then that this sensor would cause the current symptoms that my car is currently suffering?
Apologies for all the questions just curious to know more about this

Simon

 

if i remember right on the mk2 the boot one detects if a key is left in the boot,theres another sensor under the console to detect when the keys inside the car so you can start it

 

IIRC, there are three data bus systems that talk to each other through a gateway - the instrument cluster.

The various modules are linked on differing speed buses depending on their importance and priority to send and receive information.

Using the appropriate diagnostic equipment, the fault symptoms should guide an experienced auto electrician to various test points to help pinpoint a suspected faulty module.


Your AE would have most answers, but extracting them from either him or via your (third party) trusted mechanic may prove difficult.

 

Just an update to close this one off.

I finally got my car back last night, it turns out that the component which was at fault was a receiver which is in the main cabin above the roof lining (this is what the AutoElectrician told me), see picture attached:

However one further thing which complicated matters is that when the AutoElectrician first looked at the issue, the IDS diagnostics system he was using immediately flagged up to him that my car was registering 2 different VIN numbers - we deduced that this is because my car has an ECU from a Focus ST in since my original failed back in 2018, see the following post: Starting problem, any suggestions?

Because of this the auto electrician had issues coding the replacement part to the car to then re-pair the keys to the car but he managed to figure it out.

Just wondering if anyone who has had an ECU fail before and has had to fit a second hand one has seen similar issues as this?

Regardless, the car is now back and no issues so far

Simon

 

Reading this and mine had the exact same issues as yourself. Car was in ford for wks trying to figure it out,from new battery to every sensor in the boot, roof lining etc. Till they got the of chance and seen it was the sensor in both doors was causing it. Replaced them and all good for nearly 5 years now.

 

@Watsi88 @Mad Paddy
Evening Gents, I think my RS is experiencing the same problem! 🙁 The car isn't recognising the key fob (inc the spare one) and I can only start the car by the backup method of holding it to the steering column.
I have changed the batteries twice in each one, and the main car battery is only a few years old and is kept plugged into a Ctek.

Do you know the part numbers for the various sensors (doors and the one in the roof lining) by any chance?

Edit: also checked for fault codes, nothing found...

 

https://www.focusrsoc.com/threads/not-unlocking-or-locking-keys-not-recognised-and-u1900-20-fault-code.377425/post-6872813

Hey Pete - apologies mate I only know the part number of the receiver which I had replaced to fix my issue - it should be visible in the quoted post attached.
Worth noting that when mine had issues holding the key up to the steering column didn't work - I had to take the blade out of the key and slot it into the keyhole behind the blank place in the steering column to get the car to start.

Let us know what you do to resolve your issue once you get to the bottom of it

Simon

 

https://www.focusrsoc.com/threads/not-unlocking-or-locking-keys-not-recognised-and-u1900-20-fault-code.377425/post-6872813

Hey Pete - apologies mate I only know the part number of the receiver which I had replaced to fix my issue - it should be visible in the quoted post attached.
Worth noting that when mine had issues holding the key up to the steering column didn't work - I had to take the blade out of the key and slot it into the keyhole behind the blank place in the steering column to get the car to start.

Let us know what you do to resolve your issue once you get to the bottom of it

Simon

Thanks Simon, no worries! I did see your post with the photo on it, thanks. I have just bought another code reader which I hope will shed some further light on this. I will keep you posted 👍🏻😁
Pete

Hmmm, the plot thickens. So I have just plugged the new code reader in and got the following:
P1260 - theft detected, vehicle immobilised.
C1278 - steering wheel angle.
And U1900 (same as Simon, I believe) which was inactive/dormant.

The P1260 I guess could be attributed to me trying to get into the car the other day and the alarm going off, with the fob not working etc, but the steering wheel angle one is interesting?!
Any suggestions?

 

Hi Pete
Had P1260 and U1900 last year when car was serviced at Ford's. They were unable to repair only replace.
It was the famous cluster failure which I sent off repaired and returned with the original mileage on.
Cost just over £200 not the cheapest but now has lifetime guarantee.
Hope this helps
Paul

 

Thanks Paul, good to know. Was that all done through a Ford dealership? In two minds whether to take it to a Ford dealer or get a independent auto electrician to take a look...
Cheers

 

Hi Pete. Ford fitted it for me (although only a couple of screws holding it in) but they wouldn't have anything to do with the cluster repair itself. I had to send it off myself and then return it to Ford's for fitting.
As I said they would only supply a new one and couldn't/ wouldn't recommend a company to repair the unit.
Obviously I didn't want a new one or indeed a second hand one as the mileage wouldn't have been correct.
I'll try to find a link to the company I used. It's about 4 days turnaround.
Cheers Paul

Found it!!

Automotive ECU Testing - ECU Repair and Exchange

ECU Testing are a UK & global supplier of automotive ECU, ABS pump modules, transmission controllers, throttle bodies, instrument clusters and electric power steering columns. Also listing technical advice and common faults for ECUs.

www.ecutesting.com

 

Nice one, thanks Paul 👌😁

 

When I had my cluster fail, I went for new, not cheap & took 5 days to come from Germany. I wanted to get my clocks repaired but my dealer wanted to charge me 'storage' whilst the clocks were away but wouldn't for the new clocks on order! 😝
It worked out about £100 more than repair & storage fees & I insisted on my old clocks back! Once done, no problems after.

 

When I had my cluster fail, I went for new, not cheap & took 5 days to come from Germany. I wanted to get my clocks repaired but my dealer wanted to charge me 'storage' whilst the clocks were away but wouldn't for the new clocks on order! 😝
It worked out about £100 more than repair & storage fees & I insisted on my old clocks back! Once done, no problems after.

Thanks Gareth 👍🏻If going for a new one, can they put the correct mileage onto it?