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Recently did my brake pads and took some pics for a How To so without further ado

I have attached an excerpt from the manual in case anyone wants it.

Tools I used

13mm Deep Socket and Wrench
Torque Wrench
5mm or less Punch (not 100% on the diameter a I used a 3.5 tapered punch)
8mm Punch

RC Car wheel nut tool
Recoilless Hammer (very handy in tight spaces!)
Piston/Pad Spreader (like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/brake-piston-spreader-seperator-calliper/dp/B01C8YZH7G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518550839&sr=8-1&keywords=piston+spreader)
Brake Cleaner
Rags
Syringe (only if you topped up the fluid, get it from your local chemist)
Tools to remove the wheels
Tools to jack the car

1) Jack the car and remove the front wheels
2) Pop the hood and undo the brake fluid reservoir cap, remove some fluid using the syringe (never go below the min level though!)

3) Undo the the 13mm bolt

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4) Use the 8mm punch and hammer to start pushing out the bridge bolt. Eventually the thicker part of the bolt will hit the pad spring and the inboard end will no longer be in the hole on the caliper. At this point push down on the spring with your thumb and use you other hand to carefully pull out the bridge bolt. Try and do this in one go, otherwise the spring may push the bridge bolt into the caliper scratching it if you are not careful.

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5) Use the smaller punch to punch out the top pin, once it is flush with the caliper you should be able to pull it out the backside.

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20180206_173410.jpg

6) Flip the pad spring downwards and then twist it to remove it from the lower pin.

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7) Repeat step 4 for the lower pin

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6 ) Use the pad spreader on the middle of the pads, the pads have a small lip in the middle use that to start spreading them. I found that this gave me a bit of room to then spread the pads at either end, do this in small increments alternating the top and the bottom.

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9) Once the pads are almost fully retracted wiggle them left to right to loosen them from the pistons. The OEM pads have a sticky surface that sticks them to the pistons. If they don't come off try pushing the pads back a bit more. You can also try using a trim tool between the caliper and pad to lever them off.

10) Remove the pads. Use the pad spreader to push back the pistons and use brake cleaner and a rag to clean the glue gunk off pistons.

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11) Take the new pads, remove the sticky backing and place them into the caliper. The pad with the little metal hook (wear indicator) goes on the inside and the hook should be on the bottom. The other pads do not seem to have any direction to them.

20180206_175547.jpg

12) Re-install the bottom pin using the punch, I had a little RC car tool I used that fit the head of the pins nicely. A small socket and extension would be a good substitute. Make sure the pin goes through the pads. Push the pin till it goes no further, it might float a bit in the caliper but you should not be able to push it back out by hand.

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13) Re-install the pad spring, which is the reverse of the removal.

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14) Re-install the top pin, through the pads and the pad spring.

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15) Re-install the bridge bolt, check the orientation first so that the flats on the bridge bolt match the flats on the caliper. Push the spring down with your thumb just below where the bridge bolt sits and push the bridge bolt in all the way till it is seated on the inner hole.

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16) Check that the pad spring is still in the right position. If not just twist it into place, it should not take a lot of force.

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17) Re-install the bolt in the bridge bolt, it should be torqued to 27nm (20ftlb).

18) Refill the brake fluid reservoir.

19) Pump the brakes and check that the pads are moving correctly.

20) Check the brake fluid reservoir.

21) Re-install the wheels, drop the car and your done! Wheel Torque is 135nm (100ftlb).
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Your welcome, community is what makes forums and others guides, like Graham's dash cam how to really helped me. :)
 

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Good guide. Just tried mine today but the top pin on 1 side and bottom pin on the other are seized and won't knock out
 

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Yeah I'm gonna give it a try at the weekend. They won't budge no matter how hard I hit them so wd40 and if that doesn't work a garage can have that job so they can take the blame if the pins **** ha
 

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Yeah I'm gonna give it a try at the weekend. They won't budge no matter how hard I hit them so wd40 and if that doesn't work a garage can have that job so they can take the blame if the pins :censored: ha
If possible a quick squirt of wd40 the day before or night before you plan to carry out the job and let it penetrate. Should do the job and make sure a little smear of copper grease before you reinstall them 👍
 

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Changed my pads today thanks to this guide 🖒 did my discs as well which is pretty simple as 2 bolts on the back of the caliper, torque to 115nm when re fitting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Changed my pads today thanks to this guide 🖒 did my discs as well which is pretty simple as 2 bolts on the back of the caliper, torque to 115nm when re fitting.
Did you add threadlock? The oe bolts had threadlock on them and "should" be replaced each time.
 

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Did you add threadlock? The oe bolts had threadlock on them and "should" be replaced each time.
I didn't mate, decided not too even though I have thread lock in the garage (bad practise) i know.. there was still plenty on there from standard. And I'll give the bolts a check after a while.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Sounds good! I think the threadlock is there due to the high thermal load/cycles the car might experience driving on track.

They are not torque to yield though so fully reusable :)
 

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I swapped out the main pad retaining pins over the weekend as the galvanized coating had been stripped off probably from using wheel cleaner as a result these pins had gone rusty. I made some enquiries at my local dealer and these are a Ford serviceable item , Ford Finis part number is 2025491 if anyone else has the same issue.
 

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I swapped out the main pad retaining pins over the weekend as the galvanized coating had been stripped off probably from using wheel cleaner as a result these pins had gone go rusty. I made some enquiries at my local dealer and these are a Ford serviceable item , Ford Finis part number is 2025491 is anyone else has the same issue.
How much are they mate?
 

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Just be aware that after a few times it's worth renewing the bolt that screws in from the rear. They can get weak and snap if you have a fist made of bananas !!!
 
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