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Hi, I'm currently running REVO stage 2 on my rs engined St and am looking to up the power a bit,

It's a road car and will never see the track, my current spec is

Airtec stg 2 intercooler with big boost pipes

Mountune airbox with xstream filter

Full mountune milltek exhaust with 3 inch downpipe

Revo stage 2

Mods to add are

Some type of oil breather system

X4 style lower airbox air feed

Anembo billet plenum with matched inlet manifold

Change the milltek cat for a bcs 100cell race cat

Uprated fuel pump (which one is best???)

Bigger injectors, either 650cc for stg 4 or 750cc for 4+

I can't afford to forge the engine right now but may be able to come next spring, I always thought I'd like to have a double output St, so eventually I'm hoping to get it up to 450bhp or a bit more but I like to do it in stages so I can feel the difference,

I was thinking of just going straight to 4+ but all these ring lands cracking has me worried

But I'd rather not buy two sets of injectors if I can run the stage 4+ map on a lower output setting until I eventually get the engine forged

Does this sound feasible to run the stage 4 + map at 400bhp?

Has it been determined what causes the ring lands to go,
 

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if you dont wanna forge yet for 4+ then there's always water/meth injection which will help keep things cool

plenty on here myself included on 4+ with standard internals and water/meth with no issues
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I don't want a tank in the boot, can you have an underbonnet tank? Maybe in the wing like the washer bottle?

How much meth do you go though ?

It's a family car most of the time, driven like a normal car. Just every now and then it gets a good blast, will it use meth even in normal driving or only when on boost?
 

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I don't want a tank in the boot, can you have an underbonnet tank? Maybe in the wing like the washer bottle?

How much meth do you go though ?

It's a family car most of the time, driven like a normal car. Just every now and then it gets a good blast, will it use meth even in normal driving or only when on boost?
theres various different sized tanks, ive got the "RACE" tank and it doesent take up much room in the boot, you could even use your existing screen wash bottle if you wanted to

your tuner will set a start point, and full flow point for the meth to inject

the start point is usually just after 1/4 boost, so you can drive on part throttle on 1/4 boost without wasting the meth, only kicks in when you put your foot down
 

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You can adjust the boost setting on stage 4+ (as you can with stage 4) using an SPS switch.

The boost level can be set between 0 (no boost whatsoever...which just 'coughs') up to 9. There's room on the switch to hold four settings that you can swap between whenever you like (even while driving).

My switch has the following settings, which I'm able to edit by plugging the switch into my laptop and using the free Revo software to adjust the parameters:

Rectangle Font Circle Number Magenta

I generally switch it to mode 3 (low torque) - where I've set the boost to 7. This retains the same bhp level but takes the edge of the massive level of torque that you get with 4+. You can set your 'low torque' mode at whatever you like (I think boost set to 3 or 4 is the usual level).

When you fancy a blast, switch it back to High Torque and it's like getting a new car to play with :nice:

Water meth is on all the time, but unless you're holding it on boost for sustained periods while driving, it won't use much fluid at all (obviously dependent on your driving style).

It might seem a shame to go to the expense of 4+ and not use it to its full, but it's a brilliant map and running around on a low torque setting feels better than stage 4 on level 9.
 

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You can adjust the boost setting on stage 4+ (as you can with stage 4) using an SPS switch.

The boost level can be set between 0 (no boost whatsoever...which just 'coughs') up to 9. There's room on the switch to hold four settings that you can swap between whenever you like (even while driving).

My switch has the following settings, which I'm able to edit by plugging the switch into my laptop and using the free Revo software to adjust the parameters:

attachicon.gif
Revo_SPS.png

I generally switch it to mode 3 (low torque) - where I've set the boost to 7. This retains the same bhp level but takes the edge of the massive level of torque that you get with 4+. You can set your 'low torque' mode at whatever you you like (I think boost set to 3 or 4 is the usual level).

When you fancy a blast, switch it back to High Torque and it's like getting a new car to play with :nice:

Water meth is on all the time, but unless you're holding it on boost for sustained periods while driving, it won't use much fluid at all (obviously dependent on your driving style).

It might seem a shame to go to the expense of 4+ and not use it to it's full, but it's a brilliant map and running around on a low torque setting feels better than stage 4 on level 9.
A big dose of common sense there! :nice:
 

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Cracking ring lands is not a common issue...we've just all heard about the few that have had problems. We don't always hear or understand the full history leading up to a failure, but it's fair to say that forging is recommended for peace of mind.

I'd approach things in this order:

  1. Go to a well known and experienced tuner (I use SCC) where the car will be properly set up.
  2. Don't mess with the timing or fuel settings (unless you know EXACTLY what you're doing).
  3. Use good fuel like Shell V-Power Nitro+ with a high octane rating (99).
  4. Run it around on a low torque setting between blasts.
  5. Fit an oil breather.
  6. Fit water meth to help boost the octane and keep the temps down.
  7. Forge the engine.

Hope that helps :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
This is all good info guys, just what I'm wanting to hear. I already have the sps with my stage 2 tune so I think I'll jump straight to stage 4+ and run it on low boost mode. Need to research the meth systems,

Also has anybody had their car worked on by Riverside Racing since Lee moody left, he set up my car and it's been faultless I don't know who sorts the mapping out these days

Lees working at kms now, but they don't have a rolling road, so they do the map adjustments on the road
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Anybody with experience of tuning revo cars, is it just the three parameters on the sps that the installer can adjust, or is there way more to it than just three adjustments, boost, timing and fuel
 

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I want 4+ again now lol... did think of staying at stage 4....want kw`s too.........
There's no hope for you. It's inevitable. It's going to happen :laughing: :facepalm:

I've been driving around in stock mode while I continue to run-in post forging...even that felt good today :nice:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
If you were having revo stage 4+ fitted, would you go to a mechanic you trusted but where they don't have a rolling road to set it up, or, an unknown mechanic that has a set of rollers?
 

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But does it matter if it's set up on a dyno or on the road, most if not all big tuning companys that map cars run and setup on the dyno but will almost certainly Finnish by data logging and setting up on the road, As the dyno is not a normal environment. the likes of revo have already done this so its the data logging and setting up in reall life conditions that get set after installing the software
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yes, this is exactly what I was feeling, when I got revo stage 2 it was adjusted out on the road, then just a power run on the dyno at the end
 

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im stage 4 with water meth,and im happy with it , from 26000 miles now on 36000 and still on original clutch
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
So I've been to the garage without a rolling road today and they all said just go stage 4, as 4+ was a waste of money to just run at around boost setting 7, but saying that, the main mechanic said they'd not done any/many stage 4+ cars they'd always jumped from 4 to stage 5 big turbo,

Those who have run both maps, how are they both in normal round town or out with the wife and little lad in the back, my car drives really well on stage 2 I don't want to spoil it,

I'm not likely to take the car any further than this, big brake kit and that's it finished. Honest lol,
 

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Ive had revo stage 2, 4 and 4+

Difference between the 3 on part throttle is none existent, all nice and smooth and easy to drive

Not much difference from 2 to 4, apart from it pulls higher up the rev range for longer

4+ is a noticeable improvement, massive increase in torque and does pull a lot harder
 

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So I've been to the garage without a rolling road today and they all said just go stage 4, as 4+ was a waste of money to just run at around boost setting 7, but saying that, the main mechanic said they'd not done any/many stage 4+ cars they'd always jumped from 4 to stage 5 big turbo,

Those who have run both maps, how are they both in normal round town or out with the wife and little lad in the back, my car drives really well on stage 2 I don't want to spoil it,

I'm not likely to take the car any further than this, big brake kit and that's it finished. Honest lol,
Well...the garage agrees with my view that it's a big expense to run a 'boost 7' version of 4+, however the point is that you have the option of switching it to 'boost 9' when the mood takes you. You also have to consider going with the right choice of injectors (although you won't lose that much if you were to resell used ones when upgrading at a later date).

I thought that 4+ was much more common than 5 - but I have no evidence of that...I've just not read much about stage 5 on the forum. Rob at SCC said that I wouldn't notice (or benefit from) the difference between 4 and 5, unless out on a track.

I had 4 for a year and there's a big step up with 4+. Driving around town the difference between 4 and 4+ felt very apparent to me - especially on gentle pull-aways, where the torque wave comes in really strong...even on part throttle. It's easy to control (if you have feeling in your right foot :wink:) but it does pick up quickly. This is where dropping the boost level for daily driving comes in handy - it just takes the edge off the torque rush.

It ought to be an 'easy' decision:

Choose 4 if you want some extra power at the top end, and definitely don't want to go further.

Choose 4+ is you want significant extra power (and torque), for significantly more cash - and you're prepared to keep spending on meth, breathers and forging.

This probably hasn't helped you. At all :facepalm: :laughing:
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
When I originally had my rs engine conversion done, the day I got the car back I wasn't that blown away by the power, ok it was a bit faster than it was before, but after the thousands id spent on the conversion It was a bit of a let down, people are telling me stage 4 is not a big step up from where I am now,

If I can drive the family round on a setting that feels like stage 2 but when I occasionally get to go somewhere either on my own or with a mate I can switch to the full fat map then that's the way I think I should go,

I was planning on getting a breather system even at stage 4 and insurance cost dependant, meth as well,

It's just the 2.5k needed to forge if the pistons crack, I feel I'm mechanically sympathetic to the car, always fill with momentum juice, regular oil changes, I dont rag it round everywhere, stage 4+ sounds more like what I was hoping for the first time round

Has anybody got stage 4 and 4+ rolling road graphs they'd care to share
 
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