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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone, greetings from Sweden. After talking with a couple of friends on FB, i decided to take up their advice and join this forum. I'll try to describe everything as well as i can, but first some information about the car itself: It's a Focus Rs MK2 and it is running the ATM420-software by Autotech combined with a Airtec stage2 intercooler, airtec plenum, 650cc Bosch (Multi-holes) injectors, 3,5" downpipe, 100" racecat and 3" all the way back. It has a symposer delete, and a Forge Re-Circulating valve.

It all started the day Autotech put in the tune in the car and we went out for a test drive to log everything to see that everything was fine, and it was, or yeah kind of, we could see that the car was a bit lean over 6000rpm, you could feel it in the car, because it kind of lost all it's power above 6000rpm, the car pulls great from 2000-6000rpm. But over 6k, it lost its power and we could see on the logg that the lambda was on 0,91. But it should be at 0,82 all the time during boost. So i was told that it had to be the fuel pump, so i went home, ordered a Deatschwerks 65C, witch is a common pump for this car and effect.

So i installed it, started the car, it was a cold start, so the car idleed at 1300rpm for about 30 seconds, just like it used to do, then dropped to 900rpm, stayed there for about 5 sec and then it suddenly dropped to 500rpm and almost stalled, it jumped up to 1000rpm and down to 500rpm again, it did like this for about 20 sec, and suddenly it was back to 900rpm and stayed there. The car does like this all the time when it is cold, does not do it if i start the engine and it is warm.

Even worse, i still have the issue with the car being lean above 6000rpm, changing the fuel pump did not solve my problem insteed it gave me one more. So any suggestions on what i could do? There is no fault codes. I noticed that if i gave it a rev when the car idle rough, rev to 3000rpm, the car started to pop and bang, and then it stayed to 900rpm right away. So i have got the suggestion to remove my cat, to put the old fuel pump back, and so on. Where should i start? Could it be the lambda 1 that is bad? The spark plugs looks good,
 

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I had a faulty high flow pump in my RS with a similar tune that had the same start up symptoms. I refitted my old pump and it’s still in there, been fine since.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I had a faulty high flow pump in my RS with a similar tune that had the same start up symptoms. I refitted my old pump and it’s still in there, been fine since.
Yeah i was wondering if i should refit my old one. But ill still have the problem with the car being lean above 6000 rpm. :confused: I have heard that the lambda bank1 could be the issue.. but not sure
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Guys.. no ideas of what it could be? :/ i have checked for fault codes. But nothing!
I took out the MAF, started the car. It started but died direct. So i put back the MAF, and took out the MAP. It was a little hard to start. But when it started. It settle at 900rpm for several minuts. Without having a bad idle. Put the MAP back and it kind of started to idle bad again.
 

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Do you still have the original boost hoses? I had a similar problem and it turned out to be the main boost hose the one with the symposer takeoff. I had a small split in this area almost impossible to see it was changed and it sorted the problem. Also I didn't have any fault codes, may be worth checking.
 

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Based on your words, it does seem a little strange that your chosen tuner (using the Autotech software) seemed to sort of abandon you following the shakedown testing?

There's also no real mention of the steps taken with installing hardware (apart from the fuel pump) and in what order before loading the tune.

For fault finding you'd need to re-trace your steps from some sort of base line. Maybe get it on a rolling road to monitor AFR's from the tailpipe and compare to your car lambda readings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Based on your words, it does seem a little strange that your chosen tuner (using the Autotech software) seemed to sort of abandon you following the shakedown testing?

There's also no real mention of the steps taken with installing hardware (apart from the fuel pump) and in what order before loading the tune.

For fault finding you'd need to re-trace your steps from some sort of base line. Maybe get it on a rolling road to monitor AFR's from the tailpipe and compare to your car lambda readings.
No they are Helping me on distance with telling me what to do and what to try! They are not local and i cant drive over There everyday.
Last summer, i had ATM350 with 3,5” DP, 100”racekat and 3” all the way back! No issues at all! For ATM420, i only installed 650cc injectors, stage2 IC and Plenum! Everything was installed during winter, and everything was on the car when i drove over to the tuner! So i cant point on one of these 3 new hardwear and say, thats the faulty one! I am getting the car smoke tested, for leaks!
 

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I feel your frustration but you were asking for ideas...

I can see you've posted at the end of the thread, but another member from Finland seems to have had similar issues to you.



There are suggestions within those threads that the installed map may not have been the latest version.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I feel your frustration but you were asking for ideas...

I can see you've posted at the end of the thread, but another member from Finland seems to have had similar issues to you.



There are suggestions within those threads that the installed map may not have been the latest version.
Yeah i have read all those posts haha😅 i dont think it is the tune! That was back in the days, several years ago! It is the last gen of tune i got! Yesterday, i was out driving it for a hour, feelt good and it was really good, suddenly it lost all it power on boost. My fuel pressure went down from 4bar on idle, to 3bar. Under boost i only got 2,65 bar fuel pressure on boost. I use to have 3,70. So i thought it could be because it was low on fuel. Went and put in some fuel, and the car Wouldn’t start. Now i only got 1bar of fuel pressure when i try to start it.. so either my fuel pump is disconnected or it is the fuel pressure sensor next to the fuel rail that is bad.
 

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Yeah i have read all those posts haha😅 i dont think it is the tune! That was back in the days, several years ago! It is the last gen of tune i got! Yesterday, i was out driving it for a hour, feelt good and it was really good, suddenly it lost all it power on boost. My fuel pressure went down from 4bar on idle, to 3bar. Under boost i only got 2,65 bar fuel pressure on boost. I use to have 3,70. So i thought it could be because it was low on fuel. Went and put in some fuel, and the car Wouldn’t start. Now i only got 1bar of fuel pressure when i try to start it.. so either my fuel pump is disconnected or it is the fuel pressure sensor next to the fuel rail that is bad.
In case of pressure drops to 2 and even 1 bar it could just bad installation, you better check it out of tank. Almost 2 years ago i installed dw65c in standard focus's pump station from Visteon (20500luc1), because had no idea how to take out a fuel pump from standard RS's station (and wanted a set of new fuel filters). Done 6k km and it works since day 1 - idle pressure is 4.2bar and on full boost is 3.7. The car running 380-390hp with 550 injectors
Grey Gas Cylinder Machine Liquid
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
UPDATE!
So i changed the MAP and MAF sensor and it seems like it have solved the problem! The idlee is perfect and the lambda is at target around 0,82 when i am on full boost and above 6k rpm. Did some loggs and at 6600rpm the lambda was at 0,81. And the car didnt lose its power above 6k rpm like it used to. But.. it could be just me.. the car feels a bit slower.. before.. i didnt have any traction at all in 2 gear. Now it feels like it i have traction.. could it be that the ECU needs to learn the new values of the MAP/MAF? I do know that i have a half tank of 95 fuel. Insteed of 98 that i use to run.. but could it effect it that much?
 

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UPDATE!
So i changed the MAP and MAF sensor and it seems like it have solved the problem! The idlee is perfect and the lambda is at target around 0,82 when i am on full boost and above 6k rpm. Did some loggs and at 6600rpm the lambda was at 0,81. And the car didnt lose its power above 6k rpm like it used to. But.. it could be just me.. the car feels a bit slower.. before.. i didnt have any traction at all in 2 gear. Now it feels like it i have traction.. could it be that the ECU needs to learn the new values of the MAP/MAF? I do know that i have a half tank of 95 fuel. Insteed of 98 that i use to run.. but could it effect it that much?
Yes it could. Check in your logs a parameter called sparkadv (or spadv on my screen) - with 95ron knock could be detected on high boost so there will be an ignition delay.
That’s my high speed run with -3.75 of it because of MAF is not so fresh and good (the fuel is 100ron). Until -5 -6 it is ok, but not so good
Speedometer Automotive lighting Gauge Automotive design Motor vehicle
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yes it could. Check in your logs a parameter called sparkadv (or spadv on my screen) - with 95ron knock could be detected on high boost so there will be an ignition delay.
That’s my high speed run with -3.75 of it because of MAF is not so fresh and good (the fuel is 100ron). Until -5 -6 it is ok, but not so good View attachment 855443
How do i find this screen in the car?🤔
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well.. the problem is back.. was driving the car, everything was fine while driving untill i hit boost.. then the car started to bleed and missfire. I was low on fuel, so i put some fuel in it. And it still did the same thing. Now the car starts for 2-3 sec and dies.. fuel pressure is at 1,12bar when it runs, but i dont get any lambda value at all when the car runs for 2-3 sec. Also i got the code P0087 and P2177. Could the lambda be dead? Because i am not getting any value at all?
 

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Not sure if it's been checked,
i fitted the DC300c on my car recently.

was having some major issues while on Boost.
car would jerk after about 3.2k RPM.

Checked the feul pressue when i hit boost and noticed that the fuel pressure dropped.
checked the fuel lines and measured the fuel pressure with a guage and noticed that the fuel pressure was only about 200KpA.
Changed the Fuel pressure sensor, still didn't solve the problem.

took out the fuel pump and noticed that the 3 bushings that were supplied with the pump didn't hold in the pressure.

we swapped the bushing out for ones that came for an EVO pump(not sure which brand they were.think it was bartech or something)
and that solved the issue.

Based off your last comment, i really think it's worth taking a look at.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Not sure if it's been checked,
i fitted the DC300c on my car recently.

was having some major issues while on Boost.
car would jerk after about 3.2k RPM.

Checked the feul pressue when i hit boost and noticed that the fuel pressure dropped.
checked the fuel lines and measured the fuel pressure with a guage and noticed that the fuel pressure was only about 200KpA.
Changed the Fuel pressure sensor, still didn't solve the problem.

took out the fuel pump and noticed that the 3 bushings that were supplied with the pump didn't hold in the pressure.

we swapped the bushing out for ones that came for an EVO pump(not sure which brand they were.think it was bartech or something)
and that solved the issue.

Based off your last comment, i really think it's worth taking a look at.
PROBLEM SOLVED!
Well.. first time i mounted the fuel pump.. i didnt have anything that hold the pump in place.. so it took 5 days and the fuel pump was pushed out of its place. Got 0,9 bar of fuel pressure and couldnt start the car. So i put a jubilee clip to hold it in place! This time, i put a plastic spacer under the bushing. And the plastic didnt like the fuel so it just turned to rubber haha.. so that was my problem this time! Now i got a alu spacer under the bushing and its back to normal! 4bar of pressure at idle and around 3,65-3,75 under Max load! Still got some issues with the idlee jumping from 500-800 rpm sometimes on cold start. It got much better when i changed the MAF and MAP sensor. Wondering if it could be the lambda before the cat, car goes just fine.. but i have noticed high mpg. More then it use to be..
 

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Yea, Same problem i had then....

same numbers as well.
chasing these numbers..... i think we can expect the MPG to get higher and higher.
hahahaha
 
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