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Still standard here running jwr100 map, will probably buy a new standard one when replacement time comes, and/or rebuild/refurbish the used one in a friction materials specialist and install it back. The reason is that any aftermarket kit uses single mass flywheels but I fear they will rattle too much and also create problems to the gearbox or to the engine, for some reason Ford fitted a double mass one, no?
There is not a problem with the friction material of the standard clutch discs, it is of a very good quality, very similar to that used for the Focus ST and also the kit for the Volvo S60R and v70R.

The problem that needs addressing particularly is that of the clamping force exerted by the standard pressed steel covers, given that the standard friction material is fine....to a point.

You also have to take into account the backing material used behind the friction material which effects the distribution of the pressure, this material, along with the facing friction material is damaged and denatured by excessive heat. Then you get to the material out of which the centre plate is made, how it is formed etc.

Some aftermarket friction materials are also very agressive and wear their mating surfaces.

This Volvo gearbox is in use in its hundreds of thousand arround the world and is pretty robust and long lived, however you are right to say the removal of the standard DMF can sometimes causes a gear cluster to vibrate at idle, most Volvo owners change to Redline Heavyweight Shockproof gear oil if this irritates them having fitted an SMF.

If you are concerned about the lack of springing, compliance etc that comes with removing the DMF and replacing it with an SMF you might consider fitting the aforementioned Volvo 'R' clutch kit which has a sprung disc. That R kit costs a few bob more than the similar RS kit but is a better design with that sprung disc and an additional web in its cover that prevents some of the flexing. I can also offer my KU kit with a sprung disc but that does not have the torque handling capability of the solid AP disc.

Regards, Don.
 
There is no issue with driveabilety of long life with our 6 pad sprung ceramatalic plate in our superlight weight assy. We fitted on to Maxwells car over 2 years ago and it still going strong. Oh and it can handle 550ft/lbs of torque.

Simon.
 
This Volvo gearbox is in use in its hundreds of thousand arround the world and is pretty robust and long lived, however you are right to say the removal of the standard DMF can sometimes causes a gear cluster to vibrate at idle, most Volvo owners change to Redline Heavyweight Shockproof gear oil if this irritates them having fitted an SMF.

If you are concerned about the lack of springing, compliance etc that comes with removing the DMF and replacing it with an SMF you might consider fitting the aforementioned Volvo 'R' clutch kit which has a sprung disc. That R kit costs a few bob more than the similar RS kit but is a better design with that sprung disc and an additional web in its cover that prevents some of the flexing. I can also offer my KU kit with a sprung disc but that does not have the torque handling capability of the solid AP disc.
Hi Don,

My Focus Mk2 RS has 64,700 miles and the OEM clutch has started to slip. I would like to take the opportunity to fit a perfect clutch for my setup for improved reliability and increased effectiveness, but I have a legitimate fear of fitting a reinforced clutch because I was told that it's better to have a tired clutch than a gearbox that premature wear or breaks, considering that the clutch is a kind of fuse protecting the gearbox. So from the moment I modify the clutch, I have to be sure that what is behind (gearbox, driveshaft, etc.) will support the torque that will be sent to them. A point that I do not understand: as on an atmospheric engine it is common to lighten the flywheel, on a turbocharged one I thought it was not recommended. Flywheel participates in torque but also absorbs the stresses generated by the rods and pistons during the explosion. I thought too lightened flywheel could cause deformation of the crankshaft or breakage (please do not misunderstand my intentions: as I'm not a professional, my approach is that of a true enthusiast who really wants the best, or rather the most suitable for his car and trying to understand things in order to separate fact from fiction). Last point, I would like to minimize or avoid if possible noise caused by SMF. So in my case, what do you advise me? Please find below my car's power and torque curves:

dI26sg.jpg

Many thanks for your valuables advices!
 
I am also in this predicament.

I have been looking at just about every clutch kit option for the RS and have searched many posts on the forum.

My clutch at the moment only starts to slip after about 5 to 10 min of spirited driving, so not desperately needed at the moment.

But after lots of research my option would be the Kalmar Union clutch when I eventially get my pennies out!

The feedback from members on here about the Kalmar clutch have been very positive.

Some interesting points made on your last post, will be interesting to see the awnsers.
 
I still do not understand why we can't keep the OEM DMF and simply have a slightly reinforced friction disc and a stronger press ?!

Surely a slightly modifed kit with a bit more clamping force wouldn't damage the OEM DMF ?
 
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