Focus RS Owners Club - Tutorials http://www.focusrsoc.com/forums/index.php?app=tutorials Thu, 09 Sep 2010 17:27:07 +0000 1800 Tutorials from all available categories. HOW TO fit vibra-technics torque mount http://www.focusrsoc.com/forums/tutorials/article/35-how-to-fit-vibra-technics-torque-mount/
I had the benefit of a 2 post ramp at work so it was a very simple job, this also would not be hard to do on the ground with a jack but I will say if any one is doing this at home on the ground with a jack then please USE AXLE STANDS, you will need to be lying right under the car to fit the mount so please safety first!!!

anyway back to the job at hand, its a very quick 10-20minute job

tools required: jack and axle stands,torx screwdriver or bit for undertray screws, 15mm socket,ratchet, 19mm socket, 19mm spanner


1. Remove the engine undertray, 7 torx headed screws hold it on
[attachment=4214:IMG_0325.JPG]

2. locate the mount at the rear of the gearbox,and find the 2 mounting bolts
[attachment=4215:IMG_0327.JPG]
[attachment=4216:IMG_0328.JPG]

3. Remove the 2 15mm headed bolts from the mount
[attachment=4217:IMG_0329.JPG]

4.now slide the mount forward and tilt down and with a bit of a wiggle it will slide out, you may need to rock the whole engine and gearbox a little.
[attachment=4218:IMG_0330.JPG]

5.slide the new mount up and in position, this is very easy as its alot smaller than the original unit
[attachment=4219:IMG_0331.JPG]

6.now fit the original rear bolt back up through the subframe, and then the new suplied bolt and nut through the gearbox mount and tighten both, the new bolt and nut are 19mm.
[attachment=4220:IMG_0332.JPG]

7.stand back and marvel at your handy work and then refit your undertray!
[attachment=4221:IMG_0333.JPG]


Not a difficult job at all,10 mins work in a garage!! just be aware of the safety aspect of it if doing this job at home on the ground!!]]> Mon, 30 Aug 2010 19:40:55 +0000 35 650cc injectors just fitted at the kerbside in front of the house http://www.focusrsoc.com/forums/tutorials/article/34-650cc-injectors-just-fitted-at-the-kerbside-in-front-of-the-house/ A brief overview for now is :

the job took me about 1 hour
tools required are; socket set,screwdriver set, 8mm spanner,torx bits and torx screwdrivers if you have!!!
Patienece is also required due to the injectors being plastic you need to be carefull, also the fuel pipe into the fuel rail is at a stupid angle and just a pure pain!the fuel rail sensor screw is very tight too and awkward to get at!!

Please note that you should do this with a cold engine as you are going to spill some petroel which is unavoidable, and we all know petroel will ignite faster than you can say :censored:!!!!

in aprevious post about my +80 i said id do a how to so here goes;
now iv taken some photos for the "how to" but just as the injector rail was in my hands the camera battery died but to be fair from that point its very simple to remove the injectors from the rail and replace them with the new ones!! then rebuild the whole thing in reverse order!!!


1. remove symposer pipe and left section of top cover
[attachment=4182:P1010970.JPG]
[attachment=4183:P1010972.JPG]

2.disconnect boost sensor and remove boost pipe then right hand top cover
[attachment=4184:P1010979.JPG]
[attachment=4185:P1010980.JPG]

3.disconect wiring to injectors and rail pressure sensor and pull loom to the side
[attachment=4186:P1010973.JPG]

4.on the end of the rail you will find a blue cap,remove this and you find a valve like in your tyres,look away and press the pin inside it, this releases the pressure in the rail,there will be some spilt fuel here! refit dust cap so as not to loose it or forget it!!
[attachment=4187:P1010976.JPG]

5.remove small torx screw and then remove the clamp it goes through, you will need to use a small screwdriver to lever the clip on the right side of it then slide clip upwards carefully!
[attachment=4188:P1010977.JPG]
[attachment=4189:P1010978.JPG]

6.Unbolt the fuel rail, 3 8mm bolts to be removed,remove top black bracket and then slide the black clamp/bracket on the left side out sideways, being carefull, its a bit fiddly!!!
[attachment=4190:P1010981.JPG]
[attachment=4191:P1010982.JPG]
[attachment=4192:P1010983.JPG]

7. unbolt 2 8mm bolts holding fuel pipe to the engine, this will give it some movement making life a wee bit easier for removing the rail!
[attachment=4193:P1010985.JPG]
[attachment=4194:P1010986.JPG]

8.now using both hands wrap your fingers down round the rail at both ends and palms on top of the inlet manifold and just squeeze your hands untill you pull the injectors out from there seats, be sure to pull up evenly and straight as possible so as not to damage the injectors
[attachment=4195:P1010984.JPG]

9.Unbolt and remove rail pressure sensor, this wee bolt is really tight and awkward to get out, depending what tools you have you may need to partially remove the header tank so as to get a better grip of your driver to unscrew it, it is a torx head on it!
[attachment=4196:P1010987.JPG]

10. now this is the point the camera died, now you need to sort of twist the rail up and out whislt pushing the fuel pipe down and out (which will require wiggling the pipe at the far right side that you unbolted in step 7). so after a bit of time, wiggling,patience etc you will lift the rail up and more fuel will be spilt.

11. take the rail and turn it upside down, you will find 3 more torx screws, remove these and then slide off the thin metal bracket that they hold on!

12. to remove the injctors firmly hold the rail with one hand then with the other swivvle and pull the injectors out, making sure you pull them out straight as a die,, do this for all 5!!

13. take new injectors and spray all the rubber seals with some wd40 then swivvle and push fit them into the rail, then slide back on the retaining bracket, you will see the slots in the injectors that the bracket has to slot into, and refit screws!!

than take rebuilt rail and work it back down into its house making sure you wiggle and fart about getting the fuel pipe back into its house, and then firmly and evenly push the rail and injectors straight down into theyre holes then pull the fuel pipe back up to its stop then refit its retaining clip and screw you removed in step5

Now rebuild in reverse order, remember to tighten everything and reconnect everything!!

leave bonnet open whilst tidying tools and fetching your handheld mapper, this will allow the spilt fuel to evaporate,also turn ignition on but do not start car and make sure you have no fuel leaks. if you turn the ignition on and off a few times it will prime the fuel rail making sure its full of fuel and up to pressure

it is now safe to load up your new file to the car

once your happy the file is loaded and you have no leaks and all the fuel has evoporated (its not really alot of spilt fuel but best to be safe than sorry) now you can start the car and roadtest and then smile from ear to ear!!!


I apologise for the camera battery dying but i hope i have explained things well enough!!!]]> Sat, 28 Aug 2010 21:20:40 +0000 34 Central Locking http://www.focusrsoc.com/forums/tutorials/article/33-central-locking/ View PostCoggers, on 30 June 2010 - 10:54, said:

You have to do something with the fob. (the usally hold x for some many seconds etc then do this) It is on the stoc forum I remember reading about it. Are you still a member? if so might be worth having a quick look.



Ah Found it.

This was on the facelift http://www.focusrsoc.com/forums/public/style_emoticons/default/ST.gif IIRC

The unlocking sequence change is a simple one. Whilst the doors are unlocked, press and hold the lock/unlock buttons on your remote for 4secs. At this point the indicators will flash twice to confirm the change. The drivers door will now open first followed by the rest if you press the open button again within 3secs. To change back just perform the same action again.

It may or may not work on the :rs: but worth a go


*** Clicky link to full Thread ***]]> Wed, 30 Jun 2010 10:23:06 +0000 33 RS Alignment Settings http://www.focusrsoc.com/forums/tutorials/article/32-rs-alignment-settings/
CLICKY]]> Wed, 16 Jun 2010 11:58:52 +0000 32 How to change the Headlights for European driving http://www.focusrsoc.com/forums/tutorials/article/31-how-to-change-the-headlights-for-european-driving/
To do this you'll need to remove the Headlights , I haven't described this here but if you need to know how see Coggers Guide .

With the headlight removed , remove the rubber cover to reveal the inside of the unit .

You'll see a copper coloured lever and a copper coloured loop (arrowed in red) , these two are part of are the same mechanism and it's this part that has to be moved . Move it by twisting it clockwise (Green arrow , the lever part goes upwards and the loop past moves round to the right) , it moves about 90o , but you'll feel the stopping point when you reach it .

Please note that this is the L/H Headlight , the R/H one may be the opposite way , but it'll become obvious when looking at it .

http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu29/clive605081/Headlightconversion001-1.jpg


What this does is to move an internal shield over the part of the Headlight beam which when driving on the R/H side of the road would shine directly at the oncoming traffic . It produces the same effect as sticking those Beam Deflectors onto the outside of the Headlights .


Headlight beam BEFORE the adjustment .

http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu29/clive605081/Headlightconversion004.jpg



Headlight beam AFTER the adjustment , you can clearly see the effect of the shield on the beam pattern , it eliminates the raised/angled part of the beam which when driving on the L/H side of the road shines onto the verge for UK driving .

http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu29/clive605081/Headlightconversion003.jpg


Don't forget to replace the rubber cover before re-fitting the Headlight , and happy Euro-driving . :thumbsup:]]> Sun, 28 Mar 2010 11:35:36 +0000 31 How to change the Submarine lights . http://www.focusrsoc.com/forums/tutorials/article/30-how-to-change-the-submarine-lights/
First remove the interior light unit , The best tool for this is a kitchen knife . Right in the center/rear of the unit is a spring clip , slide the knife between the light and the surround , and lever it out .
http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu29/clive605081/Submarinelights003.jpg

Unplug all the wiring , there'll be 4 sets of wires to unplug .

The next step is to remove the Submarine LED holders from the unit . Push in the tab/clips where arrowed and pull the holder out .
http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu29/clive605081/Submarinelights004-1.jpg

Next the LED holder itself needs to be opened up , this is held together by another plastic tab/clip as arrowed .
http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu29/clive605081/Submarinelights005-1.jpg

Once this is done the plastic holder can be put aside (remember how it goes back together) .

The LED and resistor in now revealed .

The LED is actually crimped to the wire and the resistor , but it'll be almost impossible to uncrimp and re-use this method , so it's best left alone . Instead , the old LED can be snipped off where shown .
http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu29/clive605081/Submarinelights006-1.jpg

Next take the new LED and snip the legs to the correct length alowing a few mm overlap with the original ones that you've just cut off (bearing in mind they must end up the same overall length to fit back into the holder) . Once soldered , the connection should look something like this but overlapped a bit more (this was just for demonstration purposes)
http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu29/clive605081/submarine003.jpg


IMPORTANT - BEFORE SOLDERING READ THIS :

The new LED must be soldered into place the correct way round or it won't work .

Look into the old LED before removing it to see which way round it is connected , you'll see a small and a large electrode , the small one (+) is connected to the resistor side .
If you look at the new one you'll see something like the picture below , the arrowed side is the anode (positive (+) side) and should be soldered to the resistor .
http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu29/clive605081/Sub5-1.jpg

That's it really , don't forget to do the other side , then put it all back together and with any luck it should all work .

Good luck to Hales , Coggers and s200tod . :thumbsup:]]> Wed, 17 Mar 2010 19:03:22 +0000 30 How To: Reverse the polarity of your foglight connector. http://www.focusrsoc.com/forums/tutorials/article/29-how-to-reverse-the-polarity-of-your-foglight-connector/
You'll need...


  • A selection of tiny flat screwdrivers (my 1.4mm one was the most used)
  • Very small pliers or tweezers
  • Lots of patience
  • Nimble fingers!!
Now, just so you have been warned, there is a strong likelyhood you'll snap something if you haven't done anything like this before. Be very carefull with every step. If you're not confident with things like this, I would suggest you just cut the wires and solder them the other way. I used to work with tiny electronic components every week a few years back and still found this a bit tricky!! Anyway...




First of all, peel back some of the black tape as you'll want some slack in the wire to play with. There is a small tab (red arrow) on each side which you need to push in to release the top part of the connector. You'll notice that the piece that comes out is just a click in 'lid' (blue arrow in a later pic) which remains attached to the plug housing on a tiny hinge.

http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu29/clive605081/Gaz1.jpg

Using the tweezers, pull off the blue rubber seal which sits round the outside of the housing. Also using tweezers, pull out the green rubber seal sitting in the top of the connector housing.

http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu29/clive605081/Gaz2.jpg

Now, by using careful leverage, bit by bit, push your screwdriver in at the green arrow, working your way round, so it comes out straight...

http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu29/clive605081/Gaz3.jpg

This tiny piece should pop out the bottom end of the connector...

http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu29/clive605081/Gaz4.jpg

Now, the two white arrows show the little plastic flaps or tabs which are still holding the metal pins in. There are two more of these tabs at the back also. These tabs are very liable to break, so just lever them out enough to allow the metal pins to come back out the top of the connector housing...

http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu29/clive605081/Gaz5.jpg

You'll see that the metal pin fits through the green rubber seal, and back through the 'lid' that came out earlier...

http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu29/clive605081/Gaz6.jpg


Now you should have a totally dismantled connector!!



You just need to swap over the metal pins and put the rest of it all back together again how it was before!!

Good luck!!

Gaz http://www.focusrsoc.com/forums/public/style_emoticons/default/%29.gif]]> Mon, 01 Mar 2010 18:28:32 +0000 29 How to remove the Armrest Lid http://www.focusrsoc.com/forums/tutorials/article/28-how-to-remove-the-armrest-lid/ )

Anyway , lift up the Armrest and remove the 3 torx screws (T15) . This removes the inner plastic trim panel to reveal the sliding mechanism .

http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu29/clive605081/armrest1.jpg



Slide the Armrest up to it's extended position and remove the torx screw (T20) .

http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu29/clive605081/armrest2.jpg



Then you just need to pull the Armrest upwards to release it from it's mounting 'hooks' on the bracket/sliding mechanism .

http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu29/clive605081/armrest3.jpg


Have fun . :wink:]]> Wed, 24 Feb 2010 14:33:46 +0000 28 <![CDATA[How to replace the 'Snowshield']]> http://www.focusrsoc.com/forums/tutorials/article/27-how-to-replace-the-snowshield/
The Ford Finis Code (part number) for this is 1681010


First remove the Plastic Radiator cover (slam panel) , this is held on by 4 screw/slips , a plastic tab/hook to the left and rear of the cover and a metal clip on the R/H side . These are all shown by the arrows in these first 2 pictures .


http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu29/clive605081/snowshield1.jpg


http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu29/clive605081/snowshield2.jpg


Once this is removed , the snowshield is visable , this is held in place by 2 screw/clips (the same type as the ones holding the rad cover on) , these are on the underside of the shield and can be removed by pushing them out from behind with a screwdriver . These are shown by the arrows in these 2 pictures . (I know it's difficult to make them out , but when you see them on the car you'll understand)

http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu29/clive605081/snowshield3.jpg


http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu29/clive605081/snowshield4.jpg


The Snowshield can now be removed .

Now for the hard bit , put the new shield into position and replace the 2 screw/clips . . . . . . not as easy as it sounds .

The only way to do it is completely by feel . Using whichever hand you can get best access with , take one of the screw/clips in hand and reach under the shield , feel for the hole and push it in . This is deffinately a bit fiddley , but without removing the bumper there is no other way .

http://i630.photobucket.com/albums/uu29/clive605081/snowshield5.jpg

With the new shield in place replace the Plastic Radiator cover . Job done .]]> Wed, 17 Feb 2010 15:34:05 +0000 27 Tracking Settings . . . . posted by Cubrik http://www.focusrsoc.com/forums/tutorials/article/26-tracking-settings-posted-by-cubrik/
May be that can help you.

Claude

http://img200.imageshack.us/img200/418/webtrainsfocusenglish.jpg]]> Fri, 12 Feb 2010 10:06:33 +0000 26